Many of you know I spent the majority of my first
marriage in Germany from 1984 through 1987, while husband #1 served in the
military. I loved living overseas and
might have stayed if I could have figured out how to do it, but things called
life happen. If I did, I would not
have married Al and met many of the people that are really important in my life. Things did turn out the way they should have.
But I was feeling a little nostalgic this morning and looking though Google Maps at roads that I walked and seeing if restaurants I knew were still in
business.
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Cute little apartment building with a small balcony. Great for beer storage in the winter |
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With Lou and Vada at the wedding reception party - it was 31 years ago this month |
I lived here – first on Lammakerweg (on the third floor with
the slanted ceilings and skylight windows) and then on Andreas Fauser Strasse
(on the third floor with the great balcony off the front room and the tiny
balcony off the kitchen that over looked Martinskirche) in the village of
Mohringen.
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Andreas Fauser 24 apartment building |
It was a nice suburb of
Stuttgart and I really enjoyed walking through the village and the orchards
surrounding it. We had a lot of
restaurants and bistros within walking distance. For the first months there, Tim did not own a
car. Many of his friends did, and with a
great system of streetcars and buses, a car wasn’t truly necessary.
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The Italian Ice shop is still there - we would walk up for gelato in the eveing |
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The flower shop where I would treat myself to flowers |
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Martinskirche where there was a small farmers market on the weekend. I would walk over for fruits and meats, fresh from the farm. |
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Sadly the Bier & Brezel is closed. |
One of the first places that I had dinner out with friends
was Bier & Brezel – where a ton of military guys frequented. It was located at a main intersection between
two fairly large US bases. Another local
place was the Terrazino for “teller pizza” – which is a pizza that was the size
of a plate (or teller). Note: if you are
in Germany and ordering a meal, anything that says teller means that it’s big
(teller schnitzel, etc). Gasthof Anker
was another place, and my parents stayed there during an extended visit.
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These photos were taken from Google maps of houses I remember seeing as the streetcar went up and down Degerloch Hill |
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The tracks used to be in the middle two lanes of the road, which made it really hard to drive as you had to get out of the way |
Since my ex was working all day at Kelly Barracks, he made certain I was comfortable with the streetcar system, buying tickets and traveling
on my own. One of the things I
loved to do was to take the straβenbahn up and down Degerloch Hill. I loved to look at the view over the city of
Stuttgart and look at the glorious old apartment buildings as the straβenbahn
got closer to Stuttgart. I would wonder
how many were still as glorious on the inside as they were on the outside. Many times I did wish I lived in one of
those houses with the 10 foot ceilings and plaster walls, terrazo floor tiles. There was still an area where
you could see some of the damage from the bombs from WWII.
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I remember the umbrella and leather store was in this first group of shops |
After a time, I was pretty familiar with downtown Stuttgart
and I loved walking on the Konigstraβe and go through the shops. I bought a wonderful leather purse I used for
years and a wallet that I still use occasionally. I bought a great umbrella with a duck handle
and a shoulder strap (How freaking handy is that!!), and a scarf that I wore
European style for years (until it fell out of the sleeve of my coat and it was
lost forever). I do still mourn the loss
of that scarf. I remember the time that I was browsing the shops and was asked for instructions to the train station. As I was searching for the German words in my mind, the gentleman said "Oh, you are American, you can tell me in English."
I know for many of the
military guys the Konigstraβe was a different experience. They would prowl the Konigstraβe and side
streets for the clubs and bars in the evening and pick up the German
girls. If they were completely drunk
before a certain hour, it was called “getting ugly early!” That expression is still one that I use today to describe certain situations in life.
Perhaps I am nostalgic because this is the time of the
Oktoberfest in Germany and there was a huge one in the Stuttgart area. OMG – I remember being so drunk at some of
these festivals, but especially this one.
Beers were the size of a barn and the schnapps! But we had the best time at these
events. One especially entertaining
evening was when the schnappsfrau was trying to hit on my father in the beer
tent! He was tickled pink. The laughter and fun from these days are
forever in my mind.
2 comments:
Hi Liz,
I came over to your blog from ASOC, and I loved reading about your time in Germany. I am glad that it was a great experience for you. I had to laugh at the 'Tellerschnitzel'! Sometimes the 'Teller' isn't even big enough and the Schnitzel hangs over the sides! I, too, adored the gorgeous homes that are situated on the hills surrounding Stuttgart. I once worked next to one of those old buildings that now houses a salon outfitter company, but was once the home of a champagne maker! Unforgettable are, of course, the many a 'Schnappsfrau' at the Volksfest. They were usually past their prime, but that didn't stop them from strapping all their 'goods' into a tight Dirndl!
What a great post...I got to take a trip and not leave the couch!
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